Month: April 2014


Di Castri
Swann & Oscar



A Sunday sartorial conundrum:

I was urgently summoned into an unexpected business meeting today, and was wondering what is the appropriate dress under the circumstances? It’s business — but it’s Sunday… Hmmm.

Are people expecting you to show up in a suit, or to come as you are, maybe in sweatpants straight from the soccer pitch?

When in doubt, the California tux is always a good option.
Hypothetically, you could just happen to be wearing the whole fit already before the client summoned, and you just threw on a tie and ran over. If every lawyer, banker and PR in the room turns out to be wearing a suit, then you’re not totally out of place — after all it was Sunday, and nobody warned you.

On the other hand, if dressed like Kennedy in Hyannis Port, you turn out to be the best dressed guy in the room that Sunday, it’s easy enough to drop the tie, and ta-da it looks like some business casual chameleon outfit.

Come to think of it, it’s almost as if the entire Preppy/Ivy wardrobe was designed specifically to deal with these kinds of hybrid situations.

Orazio Luciano La Vera Sartoria Napoletana x Jean-Manuel Moreau Jean-Manuel Moreau gingham poplin BD
Boivin repp
Gambler trou
John Lobb suede


Corneliani for PRL

When composing odd jacket fits, I was always guided by the rule that says that you must have sufficient contrast between jacket and trou. Today’s fit is not that contrasted between top & bottom, and yet I think it actually works better than other pairings I’ve attempted with this difficult SC. Therefore, it may well be that boldness of pattern calls for less contrast than in solids combos.

Lessons in alterations

Often times, as we thrift away, we discard grail finds that are single-vented or ventless, preferring the current double vented style. No longer.

Thanks to a skilled alterations tailor, you can re-create double vents on ventless or single-vented suits — if your guy knows what he’s doing.

In my first experiment, the mid-gray birdseye suit, I was able to find matching fabric, but my tailor at the time was not so skilled, so we still have a visible seam where he created the side vents after closing the center event.

It’s a minor flaw, many people don’t even notice, and it still allows me to have use of the suit as a double-vented piece.

But my new guy is a lot more skilled. On this late 80’s vintage Lanvin made-to-measure charcoal flannel suit, which was ventless when I thrifted it for 90€, he was able to create the double vents in a way that is completely invisible to the outside observer. Well done.

Currently, we’re looking into going back to the birdseye to make the same alteration, which requires letting everything out at the center seam.