Month: August 2013

New Kingston Fashion (Hong Kong) MTM pink cotton GTH trou.

1) Gambler MTM CMT blazer from vintage kid mohair.

2) Polo Ralph Lauren PoW SC made by Corneliani, found on permanent sale at -70% off RRP at the Ralph Lauren outlet in La Vallée Village.

3) Carvil unlined suede tassel loafers.

Boggi puppytooth polo collar shirt.

Hello Mr Dirnelli, Thank you for your answer to my previous question, do you plan on doing a “mammoth post” about ties ? Kind regards

Probably not. With ties and ps’ the only thing that matters is what looks good. Focus only on color, texture, pattern & fabric. Who made it, how, and for how much — it’s all relative, and does not necessarily make a tie or ps look any better. I can show you a 20 euros repp tie purchased at a chain store at Verona Airport that looks better than a 150 euros equivalent from a reputed brand. I can show you a 3 euros paisley ps that looks better than its 110 euros RLPL equivalent. At Le Kimono you can find knit ties, exactly like the ones sold at Charvet, for a third of the price. Go with what you like and don’t be fooled by brand marketing when it comes to ties and ps’. Hell, some great ps’ can even be homemade from a cool swatch of repurposed fabric. Only with shoes, suits, jackets and shirts will the underlying quality & craftsmanship become outwardly visible to the trained eye. (Even cheaply made trousers can look awesome if you know what alterations to make.)

Before & After shot of shoulder width alteration on my tan Canali suit:

My alterations tailor is a master at taking-in the shoulder width on a jacket. It’s probably one of the most difficult alterations to perform succesfully — I’ve seen it done badly elsewhere, so I was hesitant to attempt it. But my guy really knows how to get it right. When taking-in shoulder width, it’s also important to tighten the chest area, and the underarms, not just cut around the top of the sleevehead. Since losing a ton of weight, I’ll be doing this alteration more frequently, it gives the suit a sleeker look, less hunky.

Note to followers: my jackets don’t have a stain

Careful observers will notice what appears to be an unsightly stain beneath the breast pocket of all my lighter colored jackets. Rest assured, that is merely some speck of dust stuck inside the lens of my sucky iPhone camera. Repair shops have not been able to solve it, and Apple is not yet selling replacement cameras for iPhone 5. I can’t be bothered to use a proper DSLR, as I manage this entire blog on the iPhone while walking to my car in the morning. I’m just waiting for the next iPhone to come out and you’ll soon have immaculate pictures again.

Dear Adrian, as a first try on ebay, I would like to dig out a traditionnal blazer and I wonder what are the key advices / brands you would advise? (I love fitted SC and formal mises – use to go to Marc Guyot for my suits). Regards

If you haven’t done so already, read my comprehensive reviews of menswear brands to get an idea about quality/pricing. Then combine that with my other advice about buying on eBay. Both posts are found here:

http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/search/review

If you have a more specific question, I’ll be happy to answer.

Rubinacci bespoke S160’s suit thrifted on eBay. Lucca bespoke shirt. Handson tie. Dimitri Gomez bespoke oxfords thrifted Chez Albert.

Frustrations with this Rubinacci: the S160 doesn’t hold a trouser crease more than half a day; the trouser pockets are knee deep, ludicrous; no rear pockets; shoulders too wide. Overall, I’m not sure that Rubinacci is such a big deal beyond the massive iGent overhype, IMHO.