Month: July 2013

Where to find bespoke ties in Paris:

Tailormail — rue de la Renaissance
Les Dandys — rue Pasquier
Di Castri — rue Benjamin Franklin
Artling — rue du Dragon
Profilo Italiano — rue du Cherche-Midi
Charvet — rue de la Paix
Sartoria Ripense — Rome, Italy
Exquisite Trimmings — on the web

Before going bespoke, it’s also possible to have your ties altered, to make them shorter or thinner (but never the opposite.) However, very few tailors will agree to do this alteration, often because they simply don’t know how. Indeed, you need to find a tailor comfortable with openning up the tie and recutting the interlining. Before they went out of business, Aris Couture did a fantastic job recutting my older ties from 10 cm to 8,5 cm wide. The alterations tailor at Couture Boileau, 61 rue d’Auteuil, also knows how to recut ties.

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Too many #Pitti street shots reblogged ad nauseam on Tumblr can do strange things to an impressionable mind… I’ve actually gone out and copped a pink jacket, like something Lucca Rubinacci would wear. In my defense, Paul, Laurent and Gilles were all in favour:

Isaia Napoli unlined/unpadded/unstructured SC with patch pockets, spalla camicia and shirred sleevehead, thirifted NWT on eBay, made from wool, silk and ramie (a Chinese nettle used to make a linen-like fabric.) Courtot bespoke shirt. Boivin knit tie. Scavini ps. PRL chinos. Boggi mocs.

All joking aside, this truly is a steezy jacket, not as hard to wear as one might fear, because the washed-out pastel hue offsets the bold color.

Another attempt at the tan suit:

Di Castri MTM jacket, with wide lapels, whose notch I had subsequently recut, to make it square like the Cipa model by Kiton. Ohnona MTM trousers, from the same Arsiton light 210 g. wool gabardine fabric. I had the pants done first, and then the jacket one year later when I decided it would look better as a suit.

Les Dandys MTM shirt. Charvet tan braces. Boivin crunchy knit tie. (I’ve been inspired by Voxsart’s blog to use the epithet ‘crunchy’ when referring to silk knit ties.) Courtot ps. Boggi mocs.

Car shoe porn — review of 3 car shoes:

1) Boggi — perhaps the most comfortable, with an incredible padded insole. The shape is nice too, with a unique rounded square toe. That was a lucky find last year, I did well to instacop the blue and brown models back then, as this season Boggi’s car shoes are not as nice.

2) Fairmount — the most over-rated. Yes, the leather is good and the comfort is great, but the price premium is totally unjustified, as the construction is so unsupporting of the foot that a sprained ankle is a distinct possibility. This pair is headed out to the country to live out the rest of its life as a household slipper.

3) Bexley — the underdog that won the race. The least expensive, and yet the best of the three. Great comfort, style, foot support and durability. This cheapo French brand has positively surpised me with both its car shoes, belts and suede chukkas, all great value-for-money.