Month: August 2012

Handmade 3-button Sartoria Parma suit, the topline of Raffaele Caruso
under their own brand, in Loro Piana Zelander wool, thrifted BNWT on eBay. Shirt by Arthur & Fox. Atelson lace ps. Horizontal twill tie by Di Castri in a Boivin bunch.


Pal Zileri birdseye suit in Loro Piana Summer Tasmanian S150’s, 90% wool 10% silk, an amazing hand, picked up on sale at the airport boutique in Venice, Italy. OTR shirt by Turnbull & Asser, with bespoke collar by Lucca. Prune emantine tie by Artling from a Boivin bunch. Atelson ps.

This looks kind of like my 3600 euros IWC Mark XVI, but this one is made of titanium by an obscure German brand named Boccia, and I just picked it up for only 69 euros at an obscure watch & sunglasses shop, on the main street of the small town of Obertsdorf in Bavaria. I immediately slapped on a NATO band and now I’m in business, with this nice alternative option when I don’t want to wear my more expensive IWC.

Today, I’m exceptionally infringing my own editorial charter, for good cause, with a picture which is indeed by me, but not of me this time. This pic is one of my bespoke tailors, Andrea Luparelli, of Sartoria Ripense in Rome, wearing only his own label, as his shop provides bespoke anything, from head to toe, even including bespoke knitwear, which is rare… What struck me upon seeing him dressed this way in his Paris apartment-showroom was the Solaro material of his suit (which you’ll never see in Paris, only in Italy), with its signature reddish highlights than my iPhone camera cannot catch. For more examples of Ripense clothes, see Paul’s Tumblr:

Gianfranco Ferre jacket and Di Castri shirt, both fatto a mano. Houndstooth tie by Atelson.

This 3000 euros jacket was gifted to me by the widow of the late Cambo Tailleur, thanks to Julien Scavini of the blog Stiff Collar, who organized a fire sale of the contents of the boutique. Thanks Julien!

The jacket illustrates many fine points of what I love about italian tailoring:
1) it’s a size too small and still fits perfectly — and the same would be true if it were a size too big — only italian suits can feel so great, even when you get the sizing wrong;
2) it has the signature neapolitan natural shoulder, but with a visible cigarette roll at the sleevehead — extra material at the circumference bunches up the sleevehead in the most graceful manner;
3) it’s a true 3 button, but with a unique continuous arc of the lapel roll, which I’ve tried to capture in this picture, giving it all the gracefulness of a 2 button opening.

So enamored was I with this (free) jacket that I ordered MTM trousers to match, in the closest fabric I could find thanks to Gambler, a Loro Piana S130’s. I know that’s a crime against sartorialism, but so far, no one can tell at first glance that it’s not a suit…